Gourmet – The Magazine of Good Living

On March 2, 2000 by Sal Desai


Table Talk – Gripes of Wrath – Suzanne Hamlin
Anyone who has ever seen the the wine list at Sparks Steak House, a meat mecca in Manhattan with a breathtakingly deep list of reds. knows that size doesn’t really matter. The Sparks menu and wine list are one. a printed miracle of sorts that sets an industry standard. Really though. how difficult would it be for most restaurants to simply hand one menu and one wine list to each diner? If you’re not interested. don’t bother to look at it. Maybe someday you’ll get tired of not looking at it. Mary Ewing-Mulligan is convinced that if someone hands you something over and over again, you’re eventually
going to read it. Maybe you’ll learn something and maybe you’ll lose the feeling that wine is a subject open to only a few. Maybe it will even lead to a spirited discussion around the table about wine.
(Gourmet-March 29, 2000)